Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Small is Beautiful (BusinessMirror-08/14/2010)

http://www.businessmirror.com.ph/home/properties/288-small-is-beautiful

by Marianne Tocmo

It literally translates to “cultivated in a pot,” but the bonsai is much more than that. For the hobbyist, this traditional art is an exercise of effort, patience and ingenuity, while for the viewer these dwarfed trees help create a perfect setting for contemplation.


And it can also be a profitable pastime. History books trace the art of bonsai cultivation at least 1,700 years to China and from there it traveled to Japan, where, according to Forbes magazine, “it became a pastime of the elite seven centuries ago. It was practiced as an esoteric art, its rules passed down by masters to apprentices, the trees themselves passed down over generations of privileged owners.”

How privileged? Forbes reported that in 1981, a prized 250-year-old juniper was sold in Japan for a whopping $2 million.




Bonsai has since taken root in many countries, including the Philippines, where it was featured in a recent flora and fauna show. According to bonsai cultivator Boyet Dagusan, the bantigi, an evergreen shrub, is a favorite among local bonsai enthusiasts. “Kasi ’yan ang magandang puno—madami siyang drift wood, maliit ang dahon, nasa kanya na lahat. ’Pag nag-show ka, lahat ng criteria andyan na,” he explains.

He also considers the sampaloc and molave as ideal for bonsai. “Piliin mo ’yung maliliit na dahon at ’yung trunk niya may porma at konting liko. Huwag ’yung diretso na medyo mataba na, kasi ’di mo na siya mawa-wire, ’di mo na mababaluktot,” he adds.

Pangasinan-based Dagusen has been cultivating bonsai for almost 12 years and has entered—and won—various bonsai competitions. He advises first-timers to look for their own plant and not settle for the semifinished ones found in nurseries as this may be costly.

The bantigi, he says, can be found in beach areas or where corals can be found.
Here he shares other techniques for creating an award-winning bonsai.

Leaf trimming. Selective removal of leaves or needles from the bonsai’s trunk and branches is essential. A common aesthetic technique in bonsai design is to expose the tree’s branches below groups of leaves or needles (sometimes called “pads”). Leaf trimming is the most common activity used for bonsai development and maintenance, and the one that occurs most frequently during the year.

Wiring. Wrapping copper or aluminum wire around branches and trunks allows the bonsai designer to create the desired general form and make detailed branch and leaf placements. When wire is used on new branches or shoots, it holds the branches in place until they lignify (convert into wood).

“’Yung material mo, pagkatanim mo, ilagay mo sa shade. Kapag may isang dangkal ng tubo saka mo ilalagay sa direct sunlight. Ngayon kapag medyo malago na ’yung sanga niya, pwede na siyang i-wire,” explains Dagusen.

“’Yung tamang pag-wa-wire dapat may first branch ka, second branch, back branch, front at may apex siya para mabuo siyang bonsai. Hindi pwedeng basta-bastang pakapalin ’yan—dapat may space ’yan based on your wire design.”

Wires are also used to connect a branch to another object (e.g., another branch, the pot itself) as tightening the wire applies force to the branch. Some species do not lignify strongly, and some specimens’ branches are too stiff or brittle to be bent easily. These cases are not conducive to wiring, and shaping them is accomplished primarily through pruning.

Watering. 
With limited space in a bonsai pot, regular attention is needed to ensure the tree is correctly watered. Sun, heat and wind exposure can dry bonsai trees to the point of drought in a short period of time. While some species can handle periods of relative dryness, others require near-constant moisture. However, watering too frequently, or allowing the soil to remain soggy, promotes fungal infections and root rot.
“River sand dapat ’yung lupang gamit sa bonsai. Kasi ’pag river sand, tumatagos agad ’yung tubig ’di tulad ng garden soil. Sa garden soil kasi, kada dilig mo, kapag tumatagal tumitigas, akala mo na-absorb na ’yung lahat ng tubig pero umaapaw na lang ’yung tubig at ’di naman nakakarating sa ilalim,” he says.
“Pag naka-wire na, umaga at hapon lang ’yung dilig. Kailangan busog siya sa tubig. Twice a month mo siyang bigyan ng fertilizer. ’Pag umuulan kahit huwag ng diligan. Kapag summer naman, three times a day mo siyang didiligan. Kasi ’yung pot niya maliit lang at medyo malaki ’yung puno mo, madali niyang ma-absorb ’yung tubig.”

Repotting. 
Bonsai are repotted and root-pruned at intervals dictated by the vigor and age of each tree. Bonsai are often repotted while in development, and less often as they become more mature. This prevents them from becoming pot-bound and encourages the growth of new feeder roots, allowing the tree to absorb moisture more efficiently.

Specimens meant to be developed into bonsai are often placed in “growing boxes,” which have a much larger volume of soil per plant than a bonsai pot does. These large boxes allow the roots to grow freely, increasing the vigor of the tree and helping the trunk and branches grow thicker. After using a grow box, the tree may be replanted in a more compact “training box” that helps to create a smaller, denser root mass which can be more easily moved into a final presentation pot.

Outdoors. 
Most bonsai species are outdoor trees and shrubs by nature, and they require temperature, humidity and sunlight conditions approximating their native climate all year round. The skill of the gardener can help plants from outside the local hardiness zone to survive and even thrive, but doing so takes careful watering, shielding of selected bonsai from excessive sunlight or wind, and possibly protection from winter conditions (e.g., through the use of cold boxes or winter greenhouses).

Indoors
Tropical and Mediterranean species typically require consistent temperatures close to room temperature, and with correct lighting and humidity many species can be kept indoors all year. Those from cooler climates may benefit from a winter dormancy period, but temperatures need not be dropped as far as for the temperate climate plants and a north-facing windowsill or open window may provide the right conditions for a few winter months.

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